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Ecological literacy


Luna collecting a seedling specimen she found, with plans to plant it up at home
I came across this article recently, entitled; ‘Identification of animals and plants is an essential skill set‘ it gave me pause for thought. The article posits that ‘ecological literacy’ is essential for us as a species and for the future of our planet. It tells us that some students of biology are lacking field skills and knowledge of plants and animals around them. That’s serious. The article is talking about students of biology.

Hoping to find fossils
While we live in a mostly urban environment, we spend quite a bit of time outdoors, looking and listening, the children observing and sometimes playing with specimens, and making small collections as we go. I make regular stops at local beaches and parks in our vicinity when we are doing our errands. We have had weekly beach days, when we stay for the better part of the day, often with other friends, were it’s possible to see the environment change with the tide, weather, and time of day – we do this in most weathers. I stop so the children can collect leaves or acorns outside our library, take an extra 20 mins or so rather than rushing off again.

Finding the perfect picnic spot
I help them identify animals and plants as they go, and I can see that knowledge is sinking in, and they are making their own connections. I am really happy for them to collect specimens, we have had banana boxes of pine cones outside our back door during one particularly obsessive period…. who knew there were so many different types of trees that produce cones for their seeds? Turns out more that we are all still learning about.

Examining the shelter made from collected fallen dead branches
I have with me some identification books I’ve picked up, mostly secondhand, over the years, that have been good to have at hand, even if it’s usually me reading them!

We packed a picnic, some containers, and our books
I encourage my children to bring home specimens to look at more closely, small plants that might survive in a pot at home or our garden, what better way to observe a plant over time? And it’s important to look closely at the environment around a small plant or fungi, is in the shade or full sun? Is it growing in a dry or boggy area? These are all mental notes we make along the way, and Luna is confident in removing and repotting plants. Some survive and some don’t, it’s all important learning, Luna wants them to live so she’s motivated to find the best conditions for her plants.

Luna collecting moss on a sundew hunt
I love how these excursions help my children better understand what’s happening seasonally, and develop a deeper knowledge of life cycles that go on around us.

Birds nests over spring and summer with random found eggshells collected and arranged by Luna, kauri tree gum and cicadas collected by Blake
I work hard not to over-commit and plan too many activities or try to fit in too many errands and chores, so we do have the time to slow down, look and listen. I also give Luna and Blake space at home to work on their finds, that might mean making a ‘set up’, pulling them all out, planting up, making presents. I also do my best not to be squeamish with insects I’d rather not get that up close and person with…

Cleaning out the braincase of a seabird’s skull
Sometimes, drawings are made of the finds, and I see as Luna and Blake grow they’ll be wanting to record their work more.

Various local and exotic echinoderms
We have some rocks and other items we plan to take to our museum to find out more, we think we know, but it is go to know when you need an expert eye. Luna has been enthusiastically curating her own ‘small collection’ which she says she might like to gift to the museum. Sweetness and seriousness in the work she does.
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Vintage Suit Sew Along ~ Styles and eras

Vintage Suit Sew Along ~ Styles and eras
How are you all getting along with your ideas and plans for the Vintage Suit Sew Along? The next week or so is about figuring out what you want to make, and collecting your materials and tools to start on the toile next month.
I have a few ideas, and am yet to settle on The Pattern for my suit….so I have been
(distracting myself)doing some research and looking at what I have to hand…Rummaging through the pattern stash to come up with some ideas for the Vintage Suit Sew Along I came across these patterns, I have arranged them within decades, and I start with some suits, jacket, skirt or pant combinations.
1930s
The 30s were great for slim lines and long hems, elegant and dare I say quite practical.

1940s
The early 1940s produced fashions that reflected the global impact of WW1, rationing, power dressing and women coming into the paid workforce like never before. The late 40s saw Dior’s New Look, which helped shape the silhouette for the following decade.


1950s
The 1950s saw the nipped in waist, full skirts and wriggle dresses that we all know so well, within this we see beautiful detailing and padded hips on jackets.

1960s
The youthquake in the 1960s moved fashion away from the full skirts and corsets of the 50s, skirts became slimmer and shorter. The women’s movement was starting to have a bigger impact and images of working women, and women ‘wearing the pants’ was having a come back.







1970s
The 1970s were a great period for pant suits, which is another nice connection to the 1940s…YSL gave us Le Smoking in 1966 and the glamour of that look made it’s way into everyday womens wear.



Dress and matching jacket patterns








Do you have a dress and jacket pattern you are thinking about? It fits the brief! Summer dresses and boleros were popular and would also work if you are looking for something a little less intimidating to the fully tailored jacket.
How are you going with your fabric selection? I just can’t decide yet, so I’m planning on whipping up a tailors ham and pressing sleeve…

#vintagesuitsewalong
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The Vintage Suit Sew Along


When I think about the pièce de résistance of my wardrobe, a sophisticated vintage style suit is a the top of my list, in a kind of ‘one day I’ll make it….’ wistful dream. This year that dream is over! I’m making my Vintage Suit….but I don’t want to do it alone! I’ve been talking to the fabulous and talented Amy Jansen Leen from Chica Chica Boom Chic, and we are both excited to announce that together we are hosting Vintage Suit Sew Along! Will you join us? Go on! Here are all the details….

What is the Vintage Suit Sew Along?
The Vintage Suit Sew Along is a fun sewing challenge for lovers of vintage style. You chose a vintage suit pattern, or draft your own, or create your own suit using vintage separates. You chose your own fabrics, to suit your needs and style, we all work along together, sharing our inspiration and ideas. Amy and I will keep the momentum going by sharing where were are at, putting together some helpful resources (inspiration ideas, tutorials, useful tools etc) then at the conclusion, Amy and I will share all our makes!

What you need to know:
This is not a competition, this is about inspiration, sharing in the Vintage Suit Sewing fun and meeting other liked minded sewists!
What you need to do:
Comment on this post, to let us know you’re in, you don’t have to have a blog to participate.
Grab a badge for your blog.
Send me a message to join our Facebook group and follow our Pinterest board.
Time Frame:
April is going to be about inspiration, ideas and planning your vintage suit. Amy and I will talk about ideas, and things to consider while planning.
May will be toile making and getting the right fit.
June will be construction, finishing and at the end of the month we’ll share all the makes!
We have allowed quite a lot of time for this project, we want you to be able to find the right pattern and source your fabric. We want to keep it open to a range of skill levels, if you have any questions get in touch with myself or Amy.
So, who’s in?

Copy and paste the embed code below to add this badge to your site.

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My ultimate Carrot Cake


This carrot cake recipe is based on one I used to make at my first cafe job, back when I was 17, I knew it from memory after making it so often….it’s big, it’s moist and everyone seems to like it!
Cake Ingredients:
1/3 cup of vegetable oil (I use a mild olive oil)
4 eggs
1 & 1/2 cup of raw sugar
3 cups grated carrot
2 Cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 Tablespoons mixed spice (use less, say, 1 teaspoon if you’re not so into spice.. 2 Tablespoons makes a really dark cake)
1 Tablespoon cinnamon
optional : 1/2 cup of sultanas, dried apricots, pineapple, dates, figs, crystalised ginger
Icing Ingredients:
200-250 gram pot of cream cheese
zest of one lemon
Juice of one lemon
1 – 2 cups icing sugar
Method:
Pre heat your oven to 180 degrees, and line or grease a cake tin, two loaf tins or a square fruitcake tin (I use a large – 25cm – round spring form tin most often).
Place oil and eggs in a mixer and mix until thick and light looking (you can do this by hand too of course) add sugar and continue to mix for a couple of minutes. While the eggs, oil and sugar are mixing, sift the dry ingredients together, add the grated carrot to the egg, oil and sugar, then add the sifted dry ingredients. Mix thoroughly then pour the mix into your lined or greased cake tin, place the oven and bake for 45 – 60 minutes.

For the icing, place half of your pot of cream cheese in your mixer and beat till smooth (or do this by hand of course..) sift your icing sugar, and add it with the zest and juice until you reach the preferred consistency, I often use a whole 200grm pot, but suit yourself! The full 200-250gram pot will make enough to make a layered cake, which is how WE roll.

When the cake has completely cooled, I slice off the top, leaving about a 2cm high cake base, place the top to the side and slather a generous dollop (about 1/3 ) of icing onto the cake base, leave maybe 1cm from the edge all around as it squishes out when you place the top on…When the top of the cake is replaced, ice it all over the top and down the sides if that’s how you like it! Sprinkle with tasty soft pieces of dried apricot, a little candy lemon zest, whatever your heart desires, slice and enjoy!

On another note….On Saturday I’ll be making a really exciting Vintage Sewing related announcement! I’ve teamed up with Amy Jansen Leen from Chica Chica Boom Chic for a really exciting project……..Can’t wait to tell you all about it! xo

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My Vintage Pledge 2016

Well, the year is moving on, this is my official Vintage Pledge post for the year. I am on a continuum of sewing from Vintage Patterns….so it almost slipped my mind to officially join in the fun for this year! If you are new to the Pledge, it’s a great way to get into vintage patterns, or share the love and knowledge if you’re a pro, it’s hosted by Marie at A Stitching Odyssey and Kerry over at Kestrel Makes, want to join in? Check out how it works at A Stitching Odyssey.
So, here is a breakdown of the Vintage Sewing Patterns I intend to use this year, some are favourites and regular makes, like slacks and shirts, and I will tackle some more challenging sewing projects this year, including completing some Couturier Sewing Patterns I have already started working with.
So I pledge to sew the following garments from Vintage Patterns from my stash:
Jumpsuits that make me happy.
I need to make at least one more jumpsuit, I’ll be using this pattern Vogue 6435, I made three jumpsuits last year, one true to the pattern and two franken-pattern jumpsuits, one wool crepe another in polyester, using the pants from Vogue 6435 and a kimono bodice I had drafted.

Vogue 6453
I may use this fabric, a polyester crepe a scored from an op shop for a couple of dollars…I just need to sort out some kind of lining….

This fabulous 70s jumpsuit has come into my possession and I’m sure you can see why I’m tempted to make it too!!

Simplicity 9451
One of the things I love about jumpsuits, is they are a complete outfit, easy to wear and dress up or down, and they are really chic. I love them.
Pajamas and maybe a house coat
This might be the first time I sew myself some decent pajamas! I have been looking at these patterns as possibilities, the Weigel’s pattern was in my nana’s stash, isn’t it gorgeous?

To make this one, I’ll need some pajama fabric, as always I am working on stash busting, so this may slip further down the list…
A suit! from one of these vintage patterns…

A Driving Jacket…
I was inspired by Jane over at Handmade Jane and her post about ‘Toppers’ which I also know as ‘driving jackets’, and I remembered that I have a couple of patterns in my stash, and how about I make on this year? With all the sewing I have been doing, I have identified a gap for this kind of garment, a comfy warm-when-you-need-it jacket that works with my current wardrobe.

Tackling the Unfinished Projects…
I’ll be completing two garments from last year, Vogue 1195 and Vogue 273…

Vogue 273

Vogue 1195
Basically, these are just waiting for the finishing details, like hems and buttons…
Vogue Paris Original
And I have this little number, another Couturier Pattern, which I’m excited to make for winter.

It has a camisole built in and hidden closures, very elegant, and this will be a new structural or design detail.

Vogue 1334
Day Dresses
I have a couple of dresses to make this year, and they are underway already…Simplicity 3107.

Simplicity 3107
This dress, Simplicity 1510, centre below, has been on my to-sew list for sometime, I had to draft the front bodice piece as it was missing from the pattern (damn!) I have the piece now, and can’t wait to give it a go.

I have a couple of new makes from patterns I have used before on the ‘to sew’ list this year.

Butterick 9497

Butterick 2137
Vintage Separates…
As for the easy wear separates; a couple of pairs of slacks, a skirt or two and a couple of shirts, these are from my go-to patterns, I know them well and love them!

Academy 2953

Butterick 7731
This year, I’ll be sewing more for my two children, so look out for the occasional children’s skirt, pants and tops…I’m enjoying seeing other pledges made, and just generally swooning over other people pattern stashes.
So, why not join the fun?
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The bolero and skirt project…the Vintage Suit warm up

I started this project a while back, inspired by this lovely, lovely grey wool-cotton blend fabric from a friend de-stashing, at about the same time I had been perusing glamorous images of women of a certain age looking in stunning grey. Why had I never thought of grey before? I mean it is a wonderful colour for an outfit. Really lovely. Add some red, and wow, stunning.
I was also inspired by two patterns, one a bolero I had made up, and enjoyed, and a skirt which – cleverly – can be made up in my size from just a meter of fabric. Thrifty and stylish.

Simplicity 2269

Simplicity 3114
There was just enough fabric to make these two garments, just quite a bit of laying up, and re-laying up the pattern. I had a small length of fabric suitable to line both the skirt and bolero my nana gave me too, perfect!

The bolero has such a great shape, really of it’s time. The skirt pattern called for gathers at the front, which I was not that into, so I experimented and went for soft pleats which joined at the waist band at an angle.


See this pretty trim? I found it at my mums.

Just perfect for this project, I think it’s quite authentic detailing for the bolero.



The skirt called for a vent, but I opted to make a kick pleat…which was a touch too tight to walk with my usual stride, so I think I’ll release it and make it a split.

Red handbag, a little flash of red from a scarf…

Quite a nice excuse to wear my nana’s flower burst brooch.


Red and grey!

This was a great little project, I enjoyed putting the work into lining the bolero, I drafted the lining from the pattern pieces for the fashion fabric, hand stitched the trim and lining. It was a bit of a challenge, and I found the light-weight lining fabric so floaty that I had to redo it twice to get it to sit right. I does still pull under one arm….so I’ll need to adjust that before the next outing.

Next….the Vintage Suit Project!
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The Jean Genie – David Bowie inspired Cocktail


Remembering David Bowie, that fabulous artist. What to do? Make a cocktail!
This is The Jean Genie, something to help you all through the sad times, and enjoy with those really great songs and performances.
Step one; put some Bowie on the turntable, cd player, youtube…..

Step two; make the drink.
Place your cocktail glass or glasses in the freezer, and fill your shaker three quarters full with ice.
Then, add:
One part Gin
One part Bianco Vermouth
Three quarters Blue Curacao
Shake vigorously, until the shaker is frosty, take your glass out of the freezer, and drop a bright red glacé cherry in the bottom of the cocktail glass, and pour the drink over it. Isn’t it beautiful? If you have some glitter or sparkly stars, toss a few of them around the room…table…floor.

Step three; dance, and sip!

Cheers!
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Beach and bird bones


We are fortunate to be able to jump in our car and reach some truly beautiful beaches, and while it’s a day trip (requiring food, packing and ‘planning’), Auckland’s west coast beaches are special to our family.

My experiences over the last year affirmed some of our core family values, love of the beach, the coast and the wild outdoors. Particularly, just how good places like this are for the soul. In tough times we head out to the ocean, the wilder the better! Now, we are not hardcore trampers by any means, so you’ll not see us regularly spending days trekking through the bush.

But we will be found meandering, looking, swimming, walking, looking at the details, exploring, and these days, at a small person’s pace. This could be described as a creative and inquisitive approach to life, it is joyful and abundant, and I so love to see this in my children.

Luna’s world is connected with the past, she sees time in rocks, and is often looking to find out what happened and when, who was there? Animals? ‘Early Humans’? She has a real thirst for exploring, finding out where and why things happened.

At the discovery of a fish carcass, with it’s skin intact, Luna comments, “These conditions are like the Sahara Desert!” it’s like it had been mummified by the environment.

The visit to the beach and the dry dunes reminded me (and Luna) of the books and documentaries that have helped inform Luna’s understanding of the passing of time, of human and animal history, and how discoveries are made, this was much like a fossil finding expedition…

While there was no evidence to suggest fossils in the rocks, there were some very exciting discoveries to be made in the dunes.

Luna discovered two sets of skeletal remains of what we think were seagulls, and we were all impressed, when seeing the bones, how much like dinosaurs they were…

Tiny, fine bones, Luna and Blake speculated about the animal, it’s size, the difference to fish bones….

A complete, and rather large skull, the jaw could open and it had some dry skin and fine feathers on it’s head. Very exciting!

Luna and Blake laid some bones out, and started to investigate them, extracting them from the sand was risky, the bones were held together by the crusty dried sand. Luna quickly assumed the role of chief archeologist! Reminding us to take care, and speculating on the find (sounding a lot like David Attenborough) how the animal might have died, and how it ended up where we found it, how it moved, and was it really a bird?

She took them home in her sunhat, this is her collection… Luna set to, brushing off sand with a paint brush, she was particularly interested in the skulls.

“Cleaning out the brain-case” Luna explained.

Wonderful specimens, and so much to learn from ‘play’ with them. Luna’s play already involves scientific investigations, she has set up ‘museums’ in a display place, and in her dollhouse, complete with workrooms, tables and trays, to clean and curate new specimens, and she uses this language as she tells the story to herself, and answers my questions when I look at her work.

What I took away from the day, is that the ‘play’ Luna creates around exploration, and discovery is wonderfully real. Even though she has yet to visit a ‘real’ fossil dig, and has so much to learn about geography and archeology, she is doing the ‘real thing’, already, she has an earnest, creative and open-minded way of seeing and doing. That, and that she fully owned and was in charge of this learning adventure. This was re-assuring for me, as I – sometimes feel – somewhat limited as far as geological field trips are concerned! Especially as Luna has read of Barnum Brown finding fossil mollusks in his back yard, that would be her dream come true….

So, we’ll hold on the to bigger geo trip plans, and keep up the beach days, the exploration, and skeleton play!
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Vintage Style Cocktail, the Apple Blossom


What with the ruby coloured Jack Rose, and summer days, I have been experimenting and enjoying some Sour Apple cocktails. The Sour Apple seems to work well with Bianco Vermouth, one of my favourite herb based liquors.

Place your cocktail glass or glasses in the freezer, and fill your shaker three quarters full with ice.
Then, add:
Two parts Applejack, I used a sour apple schnapps (which is actually not so sour)
One and a half parts Bianco Vermouth
One part Cointreau or Triple Sec..
Shake vigorously, until the shaker is frosty and pour into your chilled glasses. Garnish with a slice of fresh apple if you wish, or serve as is, which is my preference.
Cheers!

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Butterick 7653 version B


Do you have any of those patterns, the ones you must make everything you see on the envelope? This pattern is one of those for me, I made the slim skirted version A earlier this year, and with that deep ‘V’ neck line and the bias cut bodice I had to make it again.

Butterick 7653
I was given some lovely blue – grey silk by a friend who was downsizing her stash, it had a slinky feel and lovely drape, so it was perfect for this dress. I interlined each piece, basting another slinky fabric to the inside, finishing the edges with a zig zag that way I could treat the lining and fashion fabric as one, preserving the drape.

There was not quite enough fabric to make the very full skirt the pattern called for (perhaps a project for 2016….) and I experimented with a couple of different ways of pleating and gathering the skirt before attaching it to the bodice.

With my lovely assistant Luna.

I settled on wide box pleats at the front, almost wider versions of the really beautiful pleats from the slim skirt version:

I am unsure how successful this has been!

But I do love this dress.

Posing like a woman on the envelope…

Lovely back of the bodice.

Front and back..

It really is too muggy for petticoats at the moment, but a petticoat gives the skirt a really nice shape and that 50s look.

And petticoats are fun!

I also added a wee pocket (which I cannot leave out of almost any outfit these days…)

I wore some vintage day gloves from my mum, my measuring tape bangles, a flowery hat of my nanas and some beige low heels, it dresses up for evening well with higher heels, and longer black gloves. Looking forward to wearing it out and about this summer.
This is my last official Vintage Pattern Pledge post, as there are only a matter of hours left of 2015 here, but this is what I have left to complete in the new year.

Vogue Special Design 273, all that is left is to hand sew the hem.

Saying I’m ‘quite excited’ about how this dress is turing out is an understatement!

Vogue 1195
I have been working on Vogue 1195 for ages, it’s going well, I have the hem, two more bound buttonholes to make for the cuffs, and finish the self fabric belt, and it’s done. Also very exciting.
I had planned to make a suit this year, and I have a skirt and bolero nearing completion too, in a soft grey wool, really lovely fabric, and not enough for a full jacket.
These are the patterns I’m using:

Simplicity 2269

Simplicity 3114
I love the Vintage Pattern Pledge, I have discovered other vintage sewists, seen even more patterns I love, and have enjoyed the bigger challenges I have set for myself this year. Even the incomplete projects! I have also sewn up three pairs of pants, two shirts and a couple of outfits for my children, using vintage patterns and fabrics, I just have not been able to get them all on the blog….
So, as I type, there are more pins being added to the Pintrest board which you should take a look at especially if you are thinking of joining in the fun next year.
In the mean time, Happy New Year! xox

