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  • Weigel’s 2039, ready to sew.

    Weigel’s 2039, ready to sew.

    You may recall, I’ve had this pattern floating around for a while, just couldn’t commit to a fabric.  However, a couple of days at mums, and voila, all cut and ready to go, I chose this Hounds Tooth looking fabric, a printed, rather than woven pattern, in a medium weight crepe.  I picked this up this at the op shop of my dreams, nearly six meters for about $15, and it’s super wide, great condition, and SO very green!

    Here’s a close up of the fabric:

    I am making the full skirt with long sleeves, so a mash up of the variations.  I’m planning for winter, and I DO have plenty of fabric, after all.

  • Butterick 2137 complete!

    Butterick 2137 complete!

    I cut this dress out while on holiday, planning ahead for winter, I decided on the long sleeve (though collarless) left hand version.  With a lightweight slightly stretchy plaid fabric.

    No collar, I find that it gapes just slightly, but only just.

    The fit, is almost perfect, it’s really something of a wriggle dress, and I love it!  It will be perfect for winter.  I considered lining it, the fabric is slightly textured, but not uncomfortable, and I think that the fit may have been affected if I did line it.  I had some minor issues, the front darts are not quite symetrical, but this is barely perceptible, only that the vertical lines do not meet so well.  The fabric did not take to being ironed, and so spent ages pressing darts flat, and it was also very wriggly when cutting an sewing.

    A few wrinkles around the waist back, and a little lose around the shoulders, which I will work on for the make – or perhaps I’ll ask for a hand to fit the back!

    Brief review…

    Satisfaction:

    Will I wear it?  Yes!

    Will I make it again?  Yes!

    Fabric choice, alternatives:  This was perfect, having a slight stretch, though was a bit of a drag to keep flat while cutting and sewing.  Will try next with a woven cotton, and a bold flower print.

    Technical:

    Pattern fit:  Almost perfect, I had extra fabric at the back, this allowed me to correct fitting when inserting the zipper.  Also, I seem to have a shorter back, and need to remember to take a little length out of the back bodice.

    The illustration on the envelope:  Very close, though I went for a longer skirt.

    Instructions and assembly:  I just went my way, it’s a very easy pattern to put together, good for beginner dressmaker.

    Here’s the next dress from this pattern, waiting for a few hours to sew, sleeveless, wide neck, no collar, I had just enough fabric for this one!

  • Naughty Noël, a Christmas cocktail

    Naughty Noël, a Christmas cocktail

    Our Christmas cocktail, the Naughty Noël, mmm mm.  This is almost one month too late, but it still goes down a treat.  Here is what you need…

    Now, half fill your chilled shaker with cracked ice, pour over the ice the following:

    Two parts fresh cream.

    Two parts Bianco Vermouth.

    One part creme de menthe.

    Shake well, pour into chilled cocktail glasses and enjoy!  Garnish with a wee green cherry, if you have one.

    For more cocktail fun, have a look at my other recipes here.

  • Sewing book reviews…

    Sewing book reviews…

    I ought to be completing a tax return.. but I ah, I would rather just drink tea and read sewing books.  I have quite a stack of books that drift, somewhat heavily, between the sewing machine and my bedside table.  A few are library books and will need to be returned (sob!) and some live with me.

    In the tradition of the ‘Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to..’ series, this is a reliable resource, and these little babies can be bought for under five bucks, if you put the time in.. they are fairly hefty, so keep that in mind if you’re shopping online, and make sure the spine is still in good shape.  There were/are a number of editions out there, this one is from 1978.

    The majority of the content is based around garment sewing, with sections near the end of the book on upholstery and other home furnishings, I’ve only referred to this for garment sewing.

    I confess I’ve not read this baby from cover to cover, but use it as a go-to if I have a problem, or need more info… So here’s a bit of a run down, which is by no means exhaustive.

    Fabric ‘A to Z’ not really comprehensive, but enough of an introduction to many often used fabrics, with fabric content, construction and ideas or recommendations for use.

    As you might expect, detailed graphical instructions for plenty of useful techniques you probably did not pick up in high school…

    And while I’m still to try my hand at bound button holes (check out those diagrams above) this section on pattern fitting has proven invaluable.  I have had a few minor though frustrating issues with bodice fitting, these pages are great!  Figure out where the pulling of wrinkling is coming from with their guide, then follow the instructions for remedying the issue, for your bodice, sleeves, skirts, pants..

    I picked this up at the library, bit of an investment to purchase, it is a double up in much of the content as the Reader’s Digest Guide, but in more of a work book format, more reflective, and critiquing the readers’ use of techniques, with problem solving parts in the various chapters.

    See inside, good illustrations.

    These draping-on-mannequin illustrations feature throughout (that’s what fashion designers do I guess).

    On my journey to identify and understand more fabrics, I also picked this up from the library. And it’s great!  Chock full of technical info on many many fabrics, uses, care, construction, finnishing recommendations for garments, this book is at the top of my wishlist.

    Again, super heavy, and not for bed time reading (as much as I enjoy it, I just can’t hold it in one hand!) the only critique I have, is that I have not found crimplene, or terylene when I needed more care and style tips, sigh.. but it does cover many other vintage fabrics, so perhaps I’ll need to look elsewhere for those obscure, and no longer produced materials.  That and the garments used to illustrate just what you may make with a certain fabric are mostly poorly styled and somewhat dated.  But I can let that slide on account of the wealth of information this one book contains.

    This little beauty was $1.50 at the op shop, so I couldn’t possibly turn it down.

    If only for these amazing home decor ideas!

    And the groovy 70s fashions…

    Love those trousers!  And of course dresses…

    And not just for the ladies.

    Cool.

    It would be awesome if this book came with these patterns, it has all the detailed instructions you need to make all the outfits photographed, plus useful techniques.  Another really great resource!

    Finally, I splashed out and ordered a copy of Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing, wohoo!

    This book does come with patterns, yehaa, and all the typical vintage and couture sewing techniques you need to make a beautiful job of the garments in the book.

    Love it.  Gertie, (you must have seen her blog?) goes over the basics for retro sewing, the tools you need, fabrics, sizing, pattern making, fitting and shares much more knowledge on sewing lovely garments.


    Loads of beautiful illustrations and diagrams, it’s a joy to read.

    I can’t wait to try out her patterns, I’m keen on her separates, the pencil skirt in particular, and the wiggle dress looks fun, she’s even thought of including a number of variations on the patterns, so you really can personalise them for the season or just your own taste.  Oh, and she’s included metric measurements in all her instructions, how often do writers thing about us non American sewers??

    I probably could have carried on fine with the older sewing books I have, but Gertie’s book brings many techniques (and fab patterns) together for me.  And it’s cool to find a contemporary book that is all about sewing vintage style.  Love it.

  • New cocktail, Mad Men inspired of course! The Waterview Sunset…

    New cocktail, Mad Men inspired of course!  The Waterview Sunset…

    Pretty isn’t it?  With this heat, I keep making cocktails, this one is inspired by our world renowned sunsets.  And Mad Men.

    So get all this together:

    Grab your chilled shaker, half fill with cracked ice and add:

    Two parts blackberry nip (or another berry liquor you have at hand).

    One part dark creme de cacao.

    Two parts cream, and a dash of grenadine.

    Shake, shake, shake, strain into pretty chilled glasses, add a cherry.  Step out into the sunset and enjoy!

  • Weigel’s 2039 and fabric ideas…

    Weigel’s 2039 and fabric ideas…

    New dress pattern, and new fabric, a pretty printed cotton, from a friend’s de-stash…  enough for a full skirt, maybe long sleeves, can’t decide!

    I’m really enjoying full skirts in a way I never thought I would… and what with planning ahead for winter, I am inclined to go for long sleeves, will mull it over…

  • Simplicity gingham dress project…

    Simplicity gingham dress project…

    I have a number of sewing projects on the go, or waiting for some action, I picked up just under 2 meters of this vintage gingham for a couple of dollars at a local op shop, and decided it would make a sweet as home and garden frock.  Not nearly enough for a full skirt, so I thought I’d combine two of my tried and tested patterns, and use the bodice from the left and the skirt on the right.  Perfect, I think, but we’ll see, I will need to line it, so this will be a touch more work than first anticipated..

    This photo from Fashion a Visual History, was an inspiration.

  • Academy 4832… to line or not to line?

    Academy 4832… to line or not to line?

    I thought I’d share my current project, I’ve been putting together this, perhaps wearable toile, and I’m now considering lining it…  Here’s the pattern sleeve (isn’t it divine?) the dress I’m making is version three, the center black number, wide fold over collar, slim skirt and three quarter sleeves.

    I have some construction photos, so you may see it coming together, and maybe get some idea of the fabric – and that is what’s making me think more – I have a feeling I’ll need to line it, as I know I’ll love to wear it.  The thing is, the fabric, bought at an op shop, is some kind of 100% synthetic, medium to heavy weighted woven material (in the burn test it immediately melted into a black blob).  It seems to be creating a good form, but I think it’s going to feel awful on skin!  It is just slightly see through, when I hold it to the light, and has no stretch or give at all.

    And if I’m going to line it, I think this would be the moment to do it – and it will be my first lining project.  Eeek, I’m keen to do it, and I guess, after any tips or suggestions, I was thinking of cutting the bodice, sleeve, and skirt pieces out of lining material (I have recently inherited some fabulous red lining material – and plenty of it) sewing it together inside out, and then attaching it by hand or machine to the inside.. is the the typical approach?

    More photos, I just love the low back collar and the pleats on the shoulders, are so simple and beautiful, I think!

  • Simplicity 5908 done and dusted!

    Simplicity 5908 done and dusted!

    This little number didn’t take long at all – I cut it out in one of my cutting binge sessions last month, and voila, it’s ready to wear!  Using what seems to be a wool/synthetic blend, a vintage fabric find from my favourite hospice shop, one of nana’s purple zippers, and thread from mums stash, this was a breeze.

    Please excuse the vertical creases!  The fabric is medium weight and feels lovely, drapes nicely, and the colour is a richer, darker purple than the photograph conveys.  I particularly loved the look of the front panel.  I made only minor adjustments, running the bodice in a centimeter, under the arms, tapering off to the waist.

    I tried a new technique with this dress, the over lapped zip, as I had no invisible colour co-ordinating full length zippers in the stash I used a pale purple regular zipper, which as not a tricky as I first thought it may be.  Also a neat and tidy mitered corner on the overlapping panel, an easy technique I’ll use again.

    Besides pulling a touch at the back, I find the fit good, and it’s a comfortable little number to wear.  And I love the colour!

     

     

  • Mad Men inspired cocktails part three, Green Sea

    Mad Men inspired cocktails part three, Green Sea

    This is my top cocktail so far…  Green Sea, I mean, the name says it all.

    1 part vodka
    1 part dry vermouth
    1 part green creme de menthe

    Pour all ingredients over cracked ice into mixing glass or shaker. Shake briskly and pour in to chilled martini glass.

    And that’s it.  I think I love vermouth.