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Behind the scenes at the Home Front

In the lead up to the next Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand Symposium, I recall this years weekend of fun, including some photos of a behind the scenes tour attendees were lucky to participate in…
Cracking into boxes, and boxes, and boxes of stunningly beautiful textiles from the Mulvany Collection. The collection includes rolls of thread for weaving and a wide range of woven home textiles. Some items retained their original tags, others had be obviously well loved and used and surprisingly well preserved.
You can read part of their story here, on Te Ara.
What a treat!
It was incredible to see the colours, so vibrant and seductive, after so many years, we’re talking almost 100 years!
Table runners, and other tableware.
These photos don’t really do them justice! Some of the designs were far ahead in design and colour use, almost op art in their appearance.
I came across the Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand earlier this year, I was very excited I attended my first symposium, this year’s theme was Home Front – you can read the report on the blog, Dressaddress.
Here is a little more on the theme as described on the blog:
‘The Home Front’ came into use during World War One as an informal term for the civilian population of a nation at war serving as an active support system for their armed forces. Although this term generally refers to the supply and production of war equipment, it also encompasses the provision of warm clothing and food parcels sent by women to their men folk at the front, and the efforts of a local population depleted by man power to keep the nation supplied with essential goods and food stuffs.
During war time and other crises, an attitude of ‘Making Do’ prevailed to counter shortages of every-day essentials, relying on practices of making, mending, thriftiness, re-use and recycling in the domestic realm, often with great attention given to individual style and design.
Here are more photos, behind the scenes in the Maori Textiles Collection…
Some very special textiles here.
Kete packed in boxes, and cloaks! Drawers and drawers of them!
Looking into textiles that related to the Local Home Front War Effort, we spent some time with this (incredible!) embroidered New Zealand Flag:
Full a report on the symposium line up, presenters and topics around the theme, Home Front, have a look at the Costume and Textile Association website.
As for the next Symposium, I cannot wait! It is in Dunedin, from the 24th to the 25th of April and I will be there! The theme is Materiality and the Body, more details are on the CTANZ website….
Special thank you to the Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand for being so welcoming and generous, and to Damian Skinner, Rose Young, Nigel Borell, Chanel Clarke, staff at the Auckland War Memorial Museum who gave permission for publishing photos from their respective collections.
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vintage patterns bring happiness

I am a happy hoarder of some precious vintage sewing patterns, I thought I’d share some here….
I’d love to create this, especially with the short skirt and stripes, very noir. Now, to somehow orchestrate a suitable event to wear it to!
I tend to look out for Vogue Couturier Design and Vogue Special Design Patterns, they are often a bit different to many of the more common, and lovely, sewing patterns
that I already have loads of. I have found them to be a valuable resource when it comes to figuring out how to create a certain look or silouette in a garment design. Like Coralline and Hydra.I love these fabulous suits.
And day dresses, like this one, below, I do enjoy. I have a medium to dark grey soft wool blend in the stash which looks like the part, but would it be a crime to make it in anything other than violet? I have been planning a suit making project for some time, gathering information on tailoring, sewing gear I’ll need…. and trying to decide if I ought to do a workshop or give it my best shot myself…this outfit has the look of a suit, without, perhaps, the steep learning curve fine tailoring would be.
Audrey Hepburn even? I can see Audrey dashing around in this in How to Steal A Million…
How about the divine envelope illustrations! Just too much. This is a perfect summer dress, I think.
By Nina Ricci, more evening wear….
This one is also lovely, a simple elegant sheath. So timeless.
This one, well it’s quite special, and quite helpful when it comes to figuring out how to create that couture look garment.
Vintage patterns do bring happiness!!
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Simplicity 1573 – summer frock

This year has been a big ‘sewing vintage casual’ kind of year, I have made a several pairs of vintage pants and slacks, blouses and skirts, most of which I have not blogged! I will get around to it, I promise.
It’s time for a new dress post, planning for summer, which right now, seems far away!
The weekend just gone was the last Sew Fun for the year, Sew Fun is a sewing day co-op created by myself and a friend, basically, we and a group of friends put in to share costs of a community hall for 5 hours one Saturday a month, we bring our sewing machines – or as I do more often, ideas for projects to plan and cut out (due to all that space!) we also bring food to share and have a really fun time! So, on the weekend I pulled out some favourite fabrics and patterns from my stash and jumped in.
I looked at a few different options, like these:
And this, I love the neckline, with the little ‘v’ at the centre, not so keen on the jacket though, I am also looking for a full or circle skirt:
Here’s what I came up with:
This dress, with the floral Peony print for the skirt and bodice, and the turquoise for the sash:
And, I can’t wait to make this beautiful bolero jacket instead of the jacket top from the pattern above – also in turquoise:
I hope the style of the jacket works! I wonder a little about the neckline from the dress and the jacket, maybe they wont work so well?? I have plenty of the turquoise fabric, enough for a pair of elegant wide leg slacks or a half circle skirt, so it should stretch to more than one outfit… I’m also planning a more thought-out wardrobe these days, more colour matching separates, which to be honest can be tricky when one has mostly op-shopped or thrifted fabrics and notions….
Anyway! This is how the dress is looking so far, after a bit of a late night in the sewing room, the side zipper closure remains to be completed, as does the hem, closures on the cummerbund, and then onto the glamourous jacket!
I really like the shape of the neckline and the shoulders, I am undecided about whether to add small shoulder pads (is it just a side effect of being a child in the 80s and 90s?) but I need to find a way for it to hold it’s shape there.
Also, I think I could have done a better job on the ‘v’ neck, it’s just not quite sitting as well as it could…
Nice sleeves though, aren’t they?
Next up, some new to me old patterns and dream projects….!
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Hats gloves Hats

Photos from the lovely-as-always Auckland Vintage Textile Fair!
Did I mention the Hats! So many fabulous hats! Isn’t this stitching just gorgeous.
I go to the fair for inspiration, mostly. But I am always on the look out for those more unusual sewing patterns, or something I don’t already have, so I save my spending for sewing related items….like this cool vintage sewing book, for all your Modern Sewing needs!
One thing I am not short of is fabric, vintage or modern, but I do love to see what everyone else has on offer, and maybe, just maybe pick up that extra special piece…. How about this vibrant fabric?
There are always divine frocks on display and up for grabs.
I picked up some pretty patterns and a cool red hat, you’ll have to wait for the sewing projects to see them!
Some of the table displays are truly a delight to behold, like these, just lovely! Can’t wait ’til next year.
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Vote for my School Visits with AMP Do your thing!

You might have followed some of the work I have been doing this year in starting Artists Visits in Auckland Schools. So I can keep it up, and reach some of those schools who have less funds, or less funds for arts, I have applied for an AMP Scholarship. This will cover my costs to visit schools in the Auckland region, with my fabulous wearable art garments, and you can vote for me!
This link here takes you to my application page. Thanks! x
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Echinoderms

Sea urchins and sea stars are special creatures at our house, and complete dead specimens are exciting finds while beach combing. Having been into marine organisms for sometime, I have a few that I have collected from local beaches and some from far away oceans.
I pulled them out recently now that Luna and Blake are both able to take more care with such fragile items.
Sea urchins are wonderfully tactile, all the little dimples and bumps, the perfect lines that curve from the top opening to the bottom opening, and we talk about how they can be broken into sections, how the creature moves and eats, and what eats it!
We have found Aristotle’s lanterns, the name given to the unique mouth piece of an urchin, and looked at how they work. Here’s one we have looked at, from a Kina at the beach in the summer, it is in five sections, just like the external structure:
The five sections have a kind of tooth that when assembled moves up and down, we couldn’t get it back together after it has dried completely.
Luna looking at the echinoderms, pacing the specimens on print outs of various anatomical illustrations.
We talked a bit about the illustrations, but she was more interested in them as objects.
She is very much into story telling, and creating ‘set ups’ as she calls them. As far as resources goes, we have been reading about the New Zealand Sea Shore, exploring rock pools (especially over summer) and looking into the salt water aquariums at the Auckland Museum. I was interested to see if Luna would draw on or colour the anatomical printouts, but she was content to study them and arrange sea stars on them.
You can learn a bit more about echinoderms here. The specimens I have, I have collected myself dead on the beach or are from older similar collections, I like to be sure that the specimens have been collected sustainably, without damage to their environment.
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The Lost Art of Dress


The Lost Art of Dress: The Women Who Once Made America Stylish by Linda Przybyszewski, came on my radar this year, I put it on my library request list, I was very excited to get my hands on it, and it did not disappoint!
When I picked it up, I flicked through to find the illustrations, and when I found this classy number, the grey suit on the right and read the caption, “The sophisticated woman was not twenty and not worried about it in 1955. She wore grey colors and finer details.” I knew I’d love this book!
The Lost Art of Dress unravels the work and long-standing impact of the ‘Dress Doctors’; women who gave advice to other women, on what clothes to buy, sew, or re-style to suit their lifestyle, age and budget, while upholding the all important rules of dress and adornment. We are not talking pearls with everything, we are talking about a frank look at what you spend your days doing, and what clothes will serve you best, at how useful pockets are, how to care for your clothes, and make them last – more than one season.
Like the Housecoat on the left, below. I NEED one of these! And the cocktail frock on the right too, how fabulous is that collar?!

Jokes aside, it was interesting reading what the Dress Doctors had to say. They were writing to American women, by and large, who were working in and out of their homes, raising a family, sometimes with their own income, but mostly, having to clothe themselves and their family on less cash than most western women these days might spend on a coffee every week. Humbling to say the least. Sewing my own clothes is about stepping out of the ready to wear fashion industry and saving money, learning new skills and creating my own look, but I still feel the impulse to Sew All The Dresses because I think they are fabulous and I must have them…. Not so much because I need ten cocktail frocks.
That is the kind of frivolous approach to Fashion that the Dress Doctors advised against. Your time is precious, your budget is limited, chose your wardrobe wisely! If you are attending a cocktail function every week, then maybe your wardrobe, ahem, wardrobes, need to be full of glamourous gowns and numerous housecoats. But if your life is more about the day to day work of living, working, caring for a family, then look at making or buying a well cut, high quality suit, which you can wear different ways, make sure you have a good hat, and you’ll go far.
The Dress Doctors believed that a woman can dress wonderfully and feel good on a budget, with careful planning, using sewing skills and thrift almost anything is possible. That there were rules, around colour balance, age and practicality that were essential for all women. ‘The eye has to travel’ before it came a catch phrase, and I’m thinking about some of these ideas as I plan my new sewing projects… I am also in awe at the skills some young women, or girls had, and were expected to have to follow the Dress Doctors recommendations.

As I discovered in the first caption I read, the Dress Doctors valued the ‘older’ woman, she was experienced, knowledgeable, and had the kind of sophistication that young women can only dream of possessing, but has to be lived and worked for. How about that as an alternative to our ‘staying younger’ for longer, youth obsessed culture? ….And how about this travel suit for the weekend on the slopes?
You’ll enjoy learning about the history of fashion and how the Dress Doctors changed with time, how political, youth and civil rights movements changed how women dress and have a few laughs on the way. Scandals like women wearing pants and leaving the home for paid work, the beginning and demise of home economics in schooling, what women have lost, and gained over the last decade or so… Visit the authors’ website for more info, Professor Pski.
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The end of an era

Things have been a bit quiet here at Mermaid’s Purse. Life is usually busy and full, so sometimes there are gaps… but over the last week or so everything seemed to freeze over. Suddenly. I was at my mums place for a weekend with Luna and Blake, planning a bit of family time and sewing prep, when I had the phone call that my grandfather had died.
It is always a bit of a shock to receive one of Those Calls. My grandfather, known to me as Robt, was 84, and dropped dead putting gear in his car. Robt was very passionate about his faith, and grew up as the eldest child, and only son (he had two younger sisters) in a missionary, or pioneering family in a Christian organisation that is known today as Jehovah’s Witnesses. He was a skilled builder and worked on Kingdom Halls across New Zealand and on some pacific islands, so he was well known within the Witness community.
Here are some early photos, with my nana Shirley, they were married in 1950, these are a little earlier on.
I love this one, it is on the steps outside the Winter Gardens, the trees are a little shorter than they are now!
Here is one of their wedding photos, happy day!
And here’s another so you can see
Nana’s dressRobt’s sharp suit.Robt’s truck, ‘Progressive Builders’.
Robt built his family home, in Mt Roskill, here he is working on the section, that’s him on the big tractor and my dad in the little car.

I have many fond memories of this home, spending time with Nana Shirley and Robt, the rich swirling carpet, which was actually quite scratchy, there was a beautiful deco style fireplace with a huge mirror above it, etched glass on the front door and on some internal doors. Apparently Nana was a great entertainer, and loved cooking for friends, laying the table and no doubt creating a warm atmosphere.
Here’s a typical dinner party scene, that’s Robt in the bow tie, my mum and dad on the left, along with family friends on the right and uncle Chris, right front, Chris was Robt and Shirley’s second son.

This space is etched in my mind. Robt would sit, as always at the head of the table, from there he could see straight into the lounge and watch the 6 o’clock news with his dinner. I remember breakfast of bacon and eggs, my brother, Daniel, and I would sit, one on each of Robt’s knees for the meal, I don’t think this was comfortable for him! Robt had a radio on the bench next to the table, the radio was always on, tuned into the National Radio program.
I remember eating granny smith apples in bed with them both when I stayed with them, I remember the pink crimpeline curtains and the wide windows in the bedroom. There was an orchard in their backyard, and so the apples were from their own trees.
Robt loved his technology, and took many, many slides of his activities as a Witness, and other family events, and holidays. He had a caravan and he and Shirley and family travelled around in, mostly, I gather while I was very young or before I was born. He had a massive concrete block garage that was big enough to house it, and it was a big one!
Along with his own building projects, Robt had contract work for Housing New Zealand, and he had a business leasing refrigerators and freezers. He had two vans for this job, one, The Bluebird was Nana’s vehicle. I loved it, the inside of the van was lined with the same rich and course feeling carpet from one of the Kingdom Halls he worked on, it was power blue. He had another brown van, The Panel, before then, he drove one of these trucks, that’s my dad there.
Robt had two sons, my dad, Robbie and then uncle Chris, here they are playing in the backyard.
Fun at Eastern Beach with the boys, that’s my dad standing.
I also remember that Robt kept half full bags of chicken potato chips in the dinning room sideboard especially for us kids, which was sweet, except that they were always stale, I can still taste them when I think about it! Robt used to travel and would bring home pens, from everywhere. And he used to bring home watches, like really cool calculator watches. They were pretty cool in the eighties anyway.
I remember his desk, where he did his paperwork, which, to me just looked like piles and piles of paper, one of his many radios, the desk lamp and books, and more papers piled up… Which looks a just a little bit like my desk. Robt had radios everywhere, including a little transistor on the windowsill next to the loo!
Robt had some truly sad times in his life. His first wife, my Nana Shirley died of cancer in her fifties, I don’t remember much of Robt at that time. I recall my mum helping her wash in the bathroom, which disturbingly was a similar colour to Nana near the end of her life. We used to visit every evening towards the end which was tough on us all. I recall my parents were heartbroken and seeing my dad breaking down in tears for the first time. Robt was no doubt heartbroken, but was also distant.
Happily for Robt, he married Keren, and welcomed her and her daughter Naresa into his home and family. This is when there is a gap, for our family, it was a tough time. I don’t really know the details, but at this time family communication with Robt, and my dad’s relationship with his dad fell apart. Things had changed and there was still so much grief in people’s hearts. But, Robt was happy, and became a grandfather again, when his stepdaughter Naresa had Eden and Ella, and I’m sure that brought him happiness and warmed his heart.
Of great sadness to Robt must have been outliving his own two sons, Robbie, my dad, died in a car accident in the 90s, and his brother Chris also died in a car accident some years later. So in some ways this is a closing of a book, or the end of an era for the family. Chris is survived by his wife Adrienne, and their two sons, John and Peter. Robbie, is survived by Colleen, myself and my brothers, Daniel, Robbie and Timmy. Robt had great grandchildren too, Daniel’s daughter, Holly, and my two, Luna and Blake.
In many ways, Robt’s faith consumed him and influenced his relationships and family values. For Witnesses, that means taking a hardline when it comes to people who leave the organisation, as my father, and later I did. That severed our relationship, so my story with Robt ends more than a decade ago, despite my attempts at reconnecting. And that is ok, we each made the choice that felt right for us, and we were still family, if dysfunctional.
I know funerals are often sad affairs, but I do love learning something more about the person who has died, from friends and family speaking to those gathered. My experience is often of tears and laughter, hearing those stories we all have and treasure that can be comforting to reflect on.
Jehovah’s Witness funerals are usually quite different, they are firstly an opportunity to preach, and secondly talk a bit about he person who has died within the context of their life as a Witness. They don’t have photos, special items, old movies or any of that sort of thing, while the intention is to receive comfort and hope from the Bible, they can be a bit lacking if you want to think about the person who has died.
That’s why I’m sharing this here. I had these photos in my handbag at the service, ready to share, but, when I got there I realised it was not going to be the place to share and remember. Regrettably, the service was very brief and the elder giving the talk, didn’t mention the names of Robt’s sons, grandchildren, or great grandchildren and so I have remembered them here too.
Rest in peace Robt x
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McCall’s 3326 technical details – underarm gussets

This is one of the final posts on my sewing project with Elise from Punga Road Studio. You’ve seen the finished dress, now I’ll be going into some of the technical details, the first part covers some of the inner details and documents working with the underarm gussets. The second post covers the beading around the collar.
Bringing it all together, how sweet are those buttons?
Finishes…
Lovely Hong Kong seams, this is how Elise finished the hem. I do love this finish, and have used it on heavier fabrics, it works really well with this dress too, it gives just a touch more weight to the hem, and hangs nicely with it. If you need a little info on bias bound seams and Hong Kong seams (and what the difference is..) follow this link to a pdf with the deets.
Hong Kong seams are simple, if you have worked with bias binding, you can easily achieve this finish. They do require a little extra work, the raw edge of the fabric is enclosed in a strip of bias binding, it helps to keep the seam stable, and looks so classy!
Elise made a strip of bias with the lining fabric, and used it to finish the sleeve and skirt hem. This was a good choice, I have attempted to work with pre made bias binding to find it was not the best match, either two heavy for the garment fabric, or I was pressing open the strip and re-folding it anyway, so keep that in mind when planning your seam or hem finish.
This is the vent, with a tack in place attached to the lining only.
So, here are some images of how Elise put it all together… the bodice pieces all set with the gusset where it will be inserted.
Elise did all the preparation, including stay stitching, sewing and pressing darts, and stitching small squares of silk organza in the corners of the bodice back and front at the stress points, the points of the gusset, like this:
I have read of using silk organza as a seam stabiliser before, but would not have thought of using it with gussets.
Clipping the organza, nice and close, then folding it to the wrong side of the fabric.
And pinning.
Using the organza to pull back the fabric and hold it in place. Clever.
At the corner, Elise took it one stitch at a time to negotiate the intersection (making it look oh so easy).
Pivot and back again…Front.
And back.
Then close the bodice side seam, done.
And it works !
Outside.
And inside, the three way join.
And finally press. Perfect.
It was inspiring to see it all come together with ease. Elise has a common sense approach and made it all clear at each stage, taking time to go over the assembly, before we pinned and sewed, her confidence (and pleasure!) is infectious. I can see how taking the time we did in initial fitting, laying up and preparation pays off. The actual assembly of the finished dress was very straightforward with minimal fitting adjustment required.
Having picked up most of my technical sewing skills from pouring over sewing books and online tutorials, and working mostly by myself, this was a real pleasure. My confidence is up, I could ask questions as we went along, and go over anything that was unclear, just being in a place where sewing is going on with enthusiasm was great. I have hit road blocks in the past, when it comes to an unknown technique, or issues due to wrong fabric choice, or a lack of understanding in achieving a good fit, so it was really helpful to go over ideas with someone with that much more knowledge and experience than myself, and discover we have similar tastes in vintage patterns.
I would recommend picking up a sewing project and booking in with Elise, maybe you know the basics of home sewing but would like to try a vintage dress pattern, a sweet vintage blouse or skirt? Maybe even something more advanced, like a fabulous vintage suit pattern? Go on, you’ll love it! Here’s the link, Punga Road Studio and take a look at the facebook page too.
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Punga Road Studio, the finished dress!

It’s finished, McCall’s 3326 from 1953 in a lovely vintage floral fabric from the same era, hooray!
If you’re new to mermaid’s purse, or this series of posts, this is the result of an exciting collaboration with Elise Cox, the vintage sewing specialist at Punga Road Studio. I’ll share more of the technical photos and some specific skills I was interested in another post, in the meantime, here are some photos of the finished dress.
I just happened to have some co-ordinating green gloves….
I am very happy with the fit of the bodice and am impressed with the shape the underarm gusset creates and the movement it allows. The floral print on the fabric makes the seams almost invisible.

I am really glad we went for a little definition around the collar, not too much but it breaks up the floral print and subtlety draws attention to that lovely collar.
Oh and the lovely belt and buttons!
Elsie and I had to do a bit of juggling and a late night at her workspace at AUT to get the dress all done in time for The Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand’s symposium, Home Front.

A fitting event for the debut!
Oh I love it! Thank you Elise, for sharing your skills and knowledge and for pulling the late nights after work to make it all happen. I can’t wait for the next project…
And my favourite new second hand shoes! Keds gifted by lovely Estelle of Brighton, thank you x



















































































