Vogue 1195 – by Patou

I’m kicking off this year’s sewing projects with something very exciting. I acquired this elegant Vintage Vogue dress pattern, ‘designed by Patou’, last year. My plan was to make it in this lovely red wool crepe (pictured above) I have 3 metres of it, usually this is enough for  a dress, so when I come a cross a lovely fabric at a bargain, I’ll buy the 3 metres….

However, when I sat down to read the instructions, and take a good look at ALL of the pieces, and how it comes together, it is looking like I am short a metre of fabric – damn! Aside from the wide front bodice piece, the sleeves are made in two parts, and cut on the bias – lovely, yes, but taking a lot of fabric.

Back to the drawing board, in terms of fabric choice, but on with the toile! These vintage sewing patterns are rare, so if you have always wanted to see what they are like, keep reading!

This one looks to be unused, or very, very carefully used, the pattern pieces look to be in their factory folds (gulp – handle with care!)

I carefully unfolded the pieces and gently pressed them, just enough for them to lay flat on the fabric (I like to keep the impression of the original fold, as sometimes that’s the only way to pack them up again, yes, I know it’s nerdy). It was at this point that I wondered what on Earth was I thinking! This looks complicated, and oh my goodness look at all the pieces!

The pattern piece notes:

And look at the instruction sheet:

Eek! But not impossible, regardless of how complicated that button up bodice looks…. I have been sewing with vintage sewing patterns, and most often, these punched patterns, for a while now, so this does make sense, I find these easier to look at then the printed patterns.

For this project I’m making a full toile, for a couple of reasons, I want to be sure of a good fit, this is the first time working with a Vintage Vogue Designer pattern from the 50s. With the asymmetrical bodice, I suspect any fitting adjustments are going to be more challenging than what I have made before; secondly, the assembly of the front closure looks a bit complicated – I want to make any assembly errors in the toile rather than the fashion fabric!

All these carefully marked pieces await my attention at the sewing table.

Here’s that gorgeous pattern illustration again!

Here are some other fabrics I was considering, a lovely grey wool blend, and a (not that nice) synthetic dark green crepe (with a lovely drape) that I will not be using…but are still nice to think about! I am thinking, for the new fabric, green, greys, violets or reds. Fingers crossed for that dream fabric find!