A touch of noir, Advance 6190 and Simplicity 5294

Advance 6190 vintage pattern

Advance 6190

One of those, OMG patterns, Advance 6190, is a vintage pattern I splashed out on a while back, it is my first in the American Designer range, a pattern by Adele Simpson, came to me complete and in good vintage condition. I had in my stash some pale blue crepe, a wool blend, with the most luscious drape. THE exact colour on the envelope. I had to use it. Only minor issue was I had about 2.5 metres of fabric for a dress that calls for approximately twice that amount….I never let not having enough fabric hold me back though…but I would not be able to give it that ten gore skirt (yes, ten!).

Simplicity dress

Simplicity 5294

Around the same time a friend passed on to me a load of family patterns (wohooo!) which included some really elegant 70s patterns, like this one above, Simplicity 5294. Which has a really simple, shapely skirt. Perfect. Also I was able to squeeze it into the fabric. Phew.

Advance 6190 with Austin

Austin anxious for me to Sit Down.

I had barely enough fabric for the facings, I would have loved to make a belt to match, alas not this time. I used a cotton/viscose blend as a lining, the crepe is fairly rough, or at least bobbly, and I wanted something smooth against my skin. Here is how I finished the sleeve and skirt hems, a little lace.

Advance 6190 details lace cuffs

Lace hems.

This is one of my preferred finishing techniques, it hides the cut or zig zagged edge and is about the only thing I use all the lovely lace I have in my stash for.

Advance 6190 bodice

One of those projects that warrants multiple photos, such a beautiful neckline on this baby! It was a little tricky to get it all to sit right, the fabric was fairly bulky, so I needed to carefully trim back more that I would normally.

Advance 6190 complete bodice  necklinedetail


Advance 6190 complete tallbodice

I was really worried that using a different skirt, from a different era, with a reduced fullness would compromise the design and final look of the dress.

Advance 6190 tall

But, I don’t think it was worth worrying about, I think it came of very successfully, and I like the slimmer skirt, dare I say, I think it has a very 40s Noir look to it, which I can only credit the 70s skirt for.

Advance 6190 complete tall side on

And, possibly the hat!

Advance 6190 complete hand in pocket

The fabric and shoulders square off nicely too, I don’t usually go for shoulder pads, but I like a the definition that shoulder pads can give. It’s just, you know, the 90s ruined it for me! I also added a side seam zipper for a closuer instead of button down front.

Advance 6190 complete bodice hat turned

I added a side seam pocket, nice and deep too.

Advance 6190 complete bodice detail

To link the skirt and bodice more, I echoed the three pleats at the collar in three darts at the waist of the skirt.

Advance 6190 complete back bodice

Nice huh? I think it works well with the three darts in the sleeve elbow too (which I hadn’t thought about..).

Advance 6190 complete back bodice again

So happly!

Advance 6190 complete  talljpg

This is an unplanned Vintage Pledge garment, how are your vintage makes going? Not long now to finish them all off….



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