Perfect for Autumn, I managed to quickly finish this baby off despite the deadline for my WoW entries looming.  I cut it out ages ago while at mums’ place, well before the temperatures dropped, so it’s great to have something warmer to wear when I need it!  I went for the full skirt with long sleeves.  Here is is, almost complete over an oversize petticoat, awaiting the hand sewn hem.

It was so easy to make, I made only a hollow bust adjustment, folding about 8mm out from each side and making a minor short back and sway back adjustment.  It has a side over lapped zipper, which was new for me, and I added a waist band rather than making a separate belt, as that seems to be a good look for me, and saves having to make a belt!

There’s so much I love about this dress, the neck line, is so simple, it is easy to wear and very comfortable.  Some of my vintage sewing projects have resulted in lovely dresses with barely any wearing ease, so this is one of my most wearable so far.

With the side zipper, the back of the bodice, to me, feels like more of a feature, and I cannot wait to make another version of this dress.  Next time, I’ll take a little out of the sleeves, which feel a little baggy, and I’m planning to make a slim skirted version next, with this dress, I found the gathers very bulky, if making the full skirt again, I’ll take extra time to pleat them, this is another reason why I find adding a waist band helpful, it has helped to flatten and smooth them out somewhat.

Another minor issue, the skirt  looks great with a petticoat or two under it (I have to replace the elastic in my two… just notime at the moment!) sorry no pictures with the petticoat, yet.  It is also slightly sheer, so for modesty I suppose I should make an effort.  Though I have been wearing it out already, for winter it seems to go well with my 60s/70s boots, no doubt I will have to whip out some heels to make it more elegant another time.

This is an idea for another dress…  I have about four meters of terylene in a vibrant purple, it has some stretch, so I’m thinking I’ll play around with it first, might be able to omit a zipper, maybe.

I’m putting together a couple of outfits, matching separates mostly, to wear over the cooler months.  I’m getting a lot of use out of a pair of trousers I made using this pant pattern (sorry no photos yet..):

I thought I ought to make a couple more pairs of pants, get a bit colourful even!

So here’s the plan, make up this cape (it’s cut and ready to start)..

And this skirt from this sweet suit – I might make the suit top if I really get into the matching separates thing.

My fabric is a cool red woven wool synthetic blend, quite light weight with a nice drape to it, so I think it’s just right for the cape, and will also work nicely for a slim skirt and the trousers.  Not too heavy, so it should be perfect for autumn.  I also have a great stash of lining I was given, red and pink to use for this project.

This is probably the fastest turn around I’ve had for a sewing project for a long time, less than a week from cut to wear.

This fabric is an amazing vintage bark cloth.  I knew I could create a stunning bodice with this fabric, but was worried the skirt may be bulky with this fabric, but it turned out well.

Ready just in time for Luna’s fifth birthday, yesterday, Rob snapped a couple of finished photos.

I hesitate to use bold patterned fabrics for garments that incorporate beautiful paneling, gathering or pleating, sometimes those details are lost.  I think this happens here.  I created the pleats in the skirt, rather than gathering, the fabric is too heavy, and the fabric takes the pleats really well.

When it’s on, and you look closely you can see the pleats.  Also, I had half the fabric I needed for the full skirt, but didn’t want to make another slim skirt – I have the long slim skirted version of the dress just waiting to have the lining attached and the sleeves and skirt hemmed.

A number of my vintage patterns have a flat panel over the midsection, with gathers or soft pleats starting where the bodice darts meet the skirt, I thought this would be a nice touch and work with a not-so-full skirt.  That and the fact I was worried about the fabric being bulky around the belly area!

I finished the hem with some vintage lace, and here is the back of the dress, I love the low ‘v’ – please avert your eyes from the not-quite-lining up zipper!  I hand stitched the facing in place late in the night, and when I tried the dress on I realised it was pulling on one side – damn!

Brief pattern and project review…

Satisfaction:

Will I wear it?  Yes!  I love it!

Will I make it again?  Yes!

Fabric choice, alternatives:  Barkcloth was great to work with, I love these colours.

Technical, pattern fit:  Almost perfect, so glad to be able to get a little extra help from a pro sewer! I will need to make a hollow bust adjustment along with a sway back, and short back adjustment.  Then it will be perfect.

The illustration on the envelope:  Very close, this skirt is not as full, but the fabric holds the shape.

Instructions and assembly:  Easy, and quick to put together.

So, this dress did my head in a bit, but now I love it.  It has been hanging in the sewing room for a month or two while I pretend that it is not there, aaaand make six new frocks to make up for it.  Here’s a close up of the fabric… a subtle floral print on a light weight cotton.

You might have followed an earlier post here.  From the first post, you will see some of the adjustments I made, running in the darts on the front and back panels, and about one centimeter down the side lengths.  The key issue with this dress/pattern is that it is a size 18, I most often work with size 14/16 vintage patterns, so this presented some challenges.

While I was able to run it in down the sides and sew the darts a tad deeper, I think that the straps are too wide.  I have been considering adding bias binding to the edges, as in the pattern illustration, and maybe some stylish buttons.  Thoughts..?

It is also going to need ironing every time I wear it!

You may recall, I’ve had this pattern floating around for a while, just couldn’t commit to a fabric.  However, a couple of days at mums, and voila, all cut and ready to go, I chose this Hounds Tooth looking fabric, a printed, rather than woven pattern, in a medium weight crepe.  I picked this up this at the op shop of my dreams, nearly six meters for about $15, and it’s super wide, great condition, and SO very green!

Here’s a close up of the fabric:

I am making the full skirt with long sleeves, so a mash up of the variations.  I’m planning for winter, and I DO have plenty of fabric, after all.

I cut this dress out while on holiday, planning ahead for winter, I decided on the long sleeve (though collarless) left hand version.  With a lightweight slightly stretchy plaid fabric.

No collar, I find that it gapes just slightly, but only just.

The fit, is almost perfect, it’s really something of a wriggle dress, and I love it!  It will be perfect for winter.  I considered lining it, the fabric is slightly textured, but not uncomfortable, and I think that the fit may have been affected if I did line it.  I had some minor issues, the front darts are not quite symetrical, but this is barely perceptible, only that the vertical lines do not meet so well.  The fabric did not take to being ironed, and so spent ages pressing darts flat, and it was also very wriggly when cutting an sewing.

A few wrinkles around the waist back, and a little lose around the shoulders, which I will work on for the make – or perhaps I’ll ask for a hand to fit the back!

Brief review…

Satisfaction:

Will I wear it?  Yes!

Will I make it again?  Yes!

Fabric choice, alternatives:  This was perfect, having a slight stretch, though was a bit of a drag to keep flat while cutting and sewing.  Will try next with a woven cotton, and a bold flower print.

Technical:

Pattern fit:  Almost perfect, I had extra fabric at the back, this allowed me to correct fitting when inserting the zipper.  Also, I seem to have a shorter back, and need to remember to take a little length out of the back bodice.

The illustration on the envelope:  Very close, though I went for a longer skirt.

Instructions and assembly:  I just went my way, it’s a very easy pattern to put together, good for beginner dressmaker.

Here’s the next dress from this pattern, waiting for a few hours to sew, sleeveless, wide neck, no collar, I had just enough fabric for this one!

New dress pattern, and new fabric, a pretty printed cotton, from a friend’s de-stash…  enough for a full skirt, maybe long sleeves, can’t decide!

I’m really enjoying full skirts in a way I never thought I would… and what with planning ahead for winter, I am inclined to go for long sleeves, will mull it over…

I have a number of sewing projects on the go, or waiting for some action, I picked up just under 2 meters of this vintage gingham for a couple of dollars at a local op shop, and decided it would make a sweet as home and garden frock.  Not nearly enough for a full skirt, so I thought I’d combine two of my tried and tested patterns, and use the bodice from the left and the skirt on the right.  Perfect, I think, but we’ll see, I will need to line it, so this will be a touch more work than first anticipated..

This photo from Fashion a Visual History, was an inspiration.

I thought I’d share my current project, I’ve been putting together this, perhaps wearable toile, and I’m now considering lining it…  Here’s the pattern sleeve (isn’t it divine?) the dress I’m making is version three, the center black number, wide fold over collar, slim skirt and three quarter sleeves.

I have some construction photos, so you may see it coming together, and maybe get some idea of the fabric – and that is what’s making me think more – I have a feeling I’ll need to line it, as I know I’ll love to wear it.  The thing is, the fabric, bought at an op shop, is some kind of 100% synthetic, medium to heavy weighted woven material (in the burn test it immediately melted into a black blob).  It seems to be creating a good form, but I think it’s going to feel awful on skin!  It is just slightly see through, when I hold it to the light, and has no stretch or give at all.

And if I’m going to line it, I think this would be the moment to do it – and it will be my first lining project.  Eeek, I’m keen to do it, and I guess, after any tips or suggestions, I was thinking of cutting the bodice, sleeve, and skirt pieces out of lining material (I have recently inherited some fabulous red lining material – and plenty of it) sewing it together inside out, and then attaching it by hand or machine to the inside.. is the the typical approach?

More photos, I just love the low back collar and the pleats on the shoulders, are so simple and beautiful, I think!

…for our Mad Men Cocktail Party, wohoo!

These photos are a few days after the event, and needs another wash and press – but I hope you get the idea!  Here’s the image from the pattern envelope, as you may know this is the second dress I’ve made with this pattern, the first was the slim skirt with long sleeves in blue crimplene, way back here.  Which, incidentally, is also complete and awaiting a dress up to take more photos…

This dress was quick to make, and is very economical, in that the pattern pieces are mostly long panels which can fit easily into a smallish piece of fabric.  For some reason, once was not enough for me – I both love and hate this pattern!

And I love this dress… I had some major issues, self inflicted, I might add, including a nasty melting when pressing at midnight…  which is hidden by the rather wide cummerbund in black, you can read all about it here, if you really want the gory details.  I find the fit variable, for these photos (and for parties) I wear my two lightweight petticoats which seems to provide the best shape, the fabric I used is some kind of synthetic statin?  At a guess, it has a mat sheen on the right side, and just a touch if stretch, being slightly firm, which works for this fuller skirt.

Please pardon the low riding petticoat!  I have a few technical problems with this dress, I think it is a little long in the waist for me, but I did not have time to adjust it for the weekend, and despite clipping the curves and cautious yet determined pressing, the seems and darts in the back eventually revert to a puffy look.  I’m wondering if it’s the fabric choice that is letting me down here?  Also diverging from the pattern, I made a slight bow at the back of the cummerbund, I intended to attach a longer ribbon (a la Joan’s Christmas present dress) but again, ran short on time..  It may have been slightly over the top too…

Something I’m enjoying lately is creating sweet little finishing details, with this dress I edged all hems with pretty black vintage lace from mum, a little extra work, but I do love it.