My Couturier Vogue Project for Vintage Pledge 2016

20 July 2016

I chose this project as my Vintage Pledge July Extravaganza guest blogger contribution for Kestrel Makes, part of the sewing duo that brings us all The Vintage Pledge fun. It was a pleasure to be asked to share a project, and I so enjoy sewing all the vintage makes and retro sewing projects that come out for this challenge. I needed a good reason to complete this baby, and I wanted to share something rather special too.

The Vogue Paris Original Designer by Patou.

One of my first forays into Vintage Couturier Patterns, I started this sewing project about a year ago. I sew multiple projects at once, sometimes I get loads sewn up, sometimes projects languish if I hit a road block, I find it helps me stay productive and challenged. I can act on inspiration and when I feel stuck I can get some positive happy sewing times from an easier project. This project brought with it some challenges and it has taken some time to complete, until now!

Vogue 1195 Patou Purple

Pattern details

This is a Vintage Vogue 1195, Paris Original Model by Patou, printed in 1952. It has an asymmetrical button down front, a rolled collar, self fabric belt, eight bound buttonholes, plus two smaller ones on the cuffs, and voluminous two-piece bias cut sleeves. The neckline has a lovely shape with two small darts at the back of the neck, and, hidden by the belt are several small darts in the bodice along the back waist line, that create this lovely shape at the back.

Vogue 1195 complete back shoulder

Those sleeves, cut on the bias, used a lot of fabric…

Vogue 1195 pattern lay detail

…and have this great shape with a little pleat at the slightly dropped shoulder.

Vogue 1195 complete gold gloves and buttons

Bound button holes on the cuffs, and my vintage gold gloves! Here’s how they turned out.

Vogue 1195 complete gold gloves buttons belt

Fabric and notions

The fabric is a lovely wool and polyester (10%) crepe that I bought new from a fabric store, rather special, on sale some time before… I chose self fabric buttons, spent ages trying to find decent ones around various sewing supply shops in town…

Vogue 1195 self buttons tall

Tried a few different sizes, the ones above, just too big!

Vogue 1195 purple buttons buttons

I even considered pretty purple vintage buttons from my mums stash, and went for small self fabric buttons.

Vogue 1195 complete gold gloves

Sewing it up

I made a toile, which was a smart move as I was able to practice the assembly and get my head around how that lovely front button up works. It was still a bit tricky and all the marking (thread and chalk) nearly did my head in…hence it taking so long.

Vogue 1195 self button making

The instructions were adequate, and this was the first time I have made a collared dress where the facings shape the collar, rather than a shirt collar which is a separate piece, assembled and then inserted.

Vogue 1195 complete tall hands on hips

Attempting the pattern illustration pose!

Vogue 1195 complete tall pattern pose

My main regular adjustment is for a hollow bust, and I took a small amount out for this, and I think it’s not quite right, I also needed to take some out of the bust and play around with the placement of the two under bust buttons and button holes – to try and get them to line up with the lower bust dart. As I had a bit of trouble with this on the toile, I left the bound buttonholes til the end, making a little more tricky.

Vogue 1195 complete back

Final verdict

I do really love this dress, it is still ‘new to wear’ for me, and I’m looking forward to getting it out now the cooler weather is upon us. This really was a steep learning curve, I have the toile pieces, and I would like to make it again, when, I don’t know!

I would recommend the pattern, though perhaps not for a novice, and make sure you give yourself plenty of time to complete it, practice those bound button holes, and, as I reminded myself, several times, “Follow the instructions” !

#vintagepledge #vpjuly

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